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dcheever@pacbell.net
Joined: Jan 4, 2007
Messages: 3
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Hi. First off, I need to thank Jeff for devoting so much of his time to answering our questions.
To give you background before I ask my question, I've been an amateur clubmaker for awhile. I have a cheapo swingweight scale and some weights, but that's about it other than the basic assembly tools. I've reshafted a few broken Big Berthas and built sets for myself and friends. Just a hobby. Im a lefty and got into this because of the lack of equipemnt available for leftys. And I like the freedom from OEM marketing. It goes without saying that I've never been professionally fitted, I doubt I could afford it.
I found a set of Tommy Armour 855s irons at a store used, and the price was too good to pass up. Why do I hit them so much better, more consistently and further, than anything I've built myself? I mostly use older Ping style iron heads. I want to play components, but I'm baffled why these OEM clubs are just better than anything I have glued together.
The Armours swingweight to D2 R flex, as do my irons, but the Armours feel much heavier overall. How do they do that? When I put a cut shaft, grip and head on my swingweight machine, I commonly need to add 10g to the head to achieve D2. I've never seen head weights in an OEM club I have taken apart.
1. What are they doing that I am not?
2. Why do I hit these so much better than the clubs I've built? Larger heads? A heavier shaft?
If you are still awake, the question is done, but there's more......
I play 12deg. driver, 4 wood, 7 wood, 5 hybrid, 7 , 9 , PW , SW. Don't get much use out of more clubs. I always walk, and like the lighter bag. Drives go 200 yds straight consistently, sometimes further. 5 goes 155 yards every time. I do not slice or hook. I am just a hair under 50 years old.
My wrist measurement is 34.5, I cut my irons standard length, woods shorter than standard. They just feel better that way.
I typically use TTLite shafts in my irons and woods due to the .580 diamater in the A flex version of that shaft. My hands are a bit small, I use a ladies size grip either over a .580 or stretched over a .600 butt. I go back and forth, not knowing what's "right" for me. (I've used Hireko's swing analysis tools , and they agree with what i've been doing based on yardages I hit the clubs, suggesting TTLite XL shafts, A flex.)
anyone who wants to chime in, the input would be appreciated.....
d 
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Jeff Summitt
Joined: Jan 13, 2006
Messages: 2238
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Do these heads have a ferrule (checking to see if they are original 855 or re-makes) and what does it say on the shaft label? Lastly, did you re-grip these irons or are they the original men's standard size?
Jeff Summitt
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GaryJ
Joined: Feb 3, 2006
Messages: 94
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Your statement about OEM's not using weight down the shaft...actually nearly all Taylormade clubs have weight down the shaft and EVERY Mizuno club has weight down the shaft.
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Gary
Condor Golf |
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dcheever@pacbell.net
Joined: Jan 4, 2007
Messages: 3
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Jeff-
Yes, they have a large ferrule. Shaft label says True Temper - R.
I did re-grip; a 39 gram .560 size.
d
Do these heads have a ferrule (checking to see if they are original 855 or re-makes) and what does it say on the shaft label? Lastly, did you re-grip these irons or are they the original men's standard size?
Jeff Summitt
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Dave |
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Jeff Summitt
Joined: Jan 13, 2006
Messages: 2238
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Dave:
Steel-shafted with a ferrule would indicate the newer remake of that iron - there were actually a couple different models with that name too. You may be using too light and perhaps too flexible of a shaft (although the TT Lite A-flex does run firm). Check the shaft. If the step pattern is 2" apart (or greater), it would be a heavy commercial grade shaft. While we do not sell that model, we do have the Apollo Standard Stepped steel. If the step pattern is 1 1/4" part then it is a True Temper Dynalite shaft. In addition, these may be weaker lofted irons.
Jeff Summitt
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dcheever@pacbell.net
Joined: Jan 4, 2007
Messages: 3
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Thanks, Jeff. The Armours do have a 2" step I'll pick up some of those Apollo shafts you mention.
I am also thinking of going with an R flex. If I use an A/L rated .580 shaft, can I compensate on the tip trimming to achieve an R flex? I like the slimmer diameter shaft.
Dave:
Steel-shafted with a ferrule would indicate the newer remake of that iron - there were actually a couple different models with that name too. You may be using too light and perhaps too flexible of a shaft (although the TT Lite A-flex does run firm). Check the shaft. If the step pattern is 2" apart (or greater), it would be a heavy commercial grade shaft. While we do not sell that model, we do have the Apollo Standard Stepped steel. If the step pattern is 1 1/4" part then it is a True Temper Dynalite shaft. In addition, these may be weaker lofted irons.
Jeff Summitt
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Dave |
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Jeff Summitt
Joined: Jan 13, 2006
Messages: 2238
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Dave:
Just trim to standard A-flex on the A/L version. That shaft runs firm and is just as stiff as the R-flex. This way you get the smaller butt diameter, plus the heavier weight.
Jeff Summitt
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