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remiandkramer
Joined: Jan 8, 2010
Messages: 9
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Hello,
I am considering making a driver and 4 wood with steel shafts in both. I would also like to shorten the recommended lengths by an inch or so for control. As long as I don't lose ridiculous yardage I'm more interested in control as well as trying to replicate the feel I have with my Mizuno MP32 irons (will soon be switching to XK Pros). I can feel the head of these irons very nicely throughout my swing but it seems like when I pick up my older Cleveland Launcher 460 Ti with an Aldila NV 75 I lose that feel.
Where I live the courses I play are only around 6000 yards so my driver stays in the bag for most of my rounds anyway, so I'm more interested in control than distance. When I bomb a drive it rolls out to say 280, nothing impressive, it probably rolled 30 yards. I wouldn't mind if my drive rolled out to 250, it would be enough for me on the courses I play.
I want to play 6 wedges so my set composition would be D, 4W, Hybrid, 5-9 Irons, Wedges: PW, 50, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, and of course a putter. I plan to continue to reduce the length of my shafts through my wedges and also adding weight to match the weight increases of my irons from iron to iron throughout my wedges.
So back to my original inquiry: If I shorten a steel shafted driver to say 44" instead of the standard 45", do I ad tip weights, butt weights, do nothing? What if I go to 43" - too extreme? What are the repercussions?
How do I get what I'm looking for? What's the proper way to do it?
It had occurred to me to buy an ICT Driver and just experiment with different shafts, but I'd rather just make a really informed, well-educated guess at the correct finished-product and save some $.
Thanks for input anyone may be able to give!
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Jeff Summitt
Joined: Jan 13, 2006
Messages: 2541
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At 44", you most likely won't have to do anything as you would end up in a standard swingweight range. At 43", then you might want to add some weight or find a head with weight ports or heavier like our new Acer XDS Insider Thriver. You could also use a standard head weight and cut in-between lengths (43.5) as a compromise. But I would first try longer, test and then evaluate. You can choke down a 1/2" and then 1" to see what the difference is. The worst case it you lop off a grip or two.
Jeff Summitt
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remiandkramer
Joined: Jan 8, 2010
Messages: 9
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If I went to 43" how much weight would get me in the ballpark of a similar standard swing weight?
I also liked the idea of your Acer Thriver. The thought and innovation that went in to developing that is simply awesome.
My only concern is having a ball flight that although it may be effective, too high for my tastes. If I could replicate the ball flight to my current 9.5* ball flight which is med-high, I may consider it as an option. Do you think I could set it up to do that?
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Jeff Summitt
Joined: Jan 13, 2006
Messages: 2541
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From those that have hit the Thriver have not noticed the ball going as high as the loft would indicate. But there will be a difference between 9.5 degree driver's launch angle and the Thriver trajectory that no shaft will compensate for. At 43", you may need anywhere from 5-10g weight depending upon the weight of the steel and and the grip to obtain a normal swingweight.
Jeff Summitt
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GaryJ

Joined: Feb 3, 2006
Messages: 100
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I tried the Thriver last week at the Demo day at the PGA show in Florida and was quite surprised that the flight was lower than I thought it would be. I would say it was mid trajectory. I also watched quite a few others who hit it and I don't recall that their flight was too high.
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Gary
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remiandkramer
Joined: Jan 8, 2010
Messages: 9
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Gary, Thanks for the information. Do you recall noticing much of a difference between the Thriver and your regular driver?
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GaryJ

Joined: Feb 3, 2006
Messages: 100
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Funny, you should ask that question...my current driver (I've played with for 3 years) is the old Hireko Power Play System Q Tri-Port in 12 deg. loft and the Thriver I hit in Orlando was 14 deg. I actually hit them about the same trajectory, but the Thriver seemed straighter to me. Not sure what shaft was in the Thriver (you'd have to ask Jeff), but the shaft in the Tri-Port is the Cadence Pro 85 Regular. I was hitting the Thriver into about a 15 mph wind and it was difficult to determine the actual distance (due to the configuration of the driving range). I will say that I was impressed with the shape and design of the Thriver and I will order one soon. Sorry for my rambling.
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Gary
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Jeff Summitt
Joined: Jan 13, 2006
Messages: 2541
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Gary:
It was the Acer Velocity shaft cut to R-flex. In this case it is cut to 3-wood trimming because of the heavier head.
Jeff Summitt
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