http://www.hirekogolf.com/jforum/posts/6.page JForum - http://www.jforum.net
To give you background before I ask my question, I've been an amateur clubmaker for awhile. I have a cheapo swingweight scale and some weights, but that's about it other than the basic assembly tools. I've reshafted a few broken Big Berthas and built sets for myself and friends. Just a hobby. Im a lefty and got into this because of the lack of equipemnt available for leftys. And I like the freedom from OEM marketing. It goes without saying that I've never been professionally fitted, I doubt I could afford it.

I found a set of Tommy Armour 855s irons at a store used, and the price was too good to pass up. Why do I hit them so much better, more consistently and further, than anything I've built myself? I mostly use older Ping style iron heads. I want to play components, but I'm baffled why these OEM clubs are just better than anything I have glued together.

The Armours swingweight to D2 R flex, as do my irons, but the Armours feel much heavier overall. How do they do that? When I put a cut shaft, grip and head on my swingweight machine, I commonly need to add 10g to the head to achieve D2. I've never seen head weights in an OEM club I have taken apart.

1. What are they doing that I am not?
2. Why do I hit these so much better than the clubs I've built? Larger heads? A heavier shaft?



If you are still awake, the question is done, but there's more......

I play 12deg. driver, 4 wood, 7 wood, 5 hybrid, 7 , 9 , PW , SW. Don't get much use out of more clubs. I always walk, and like the lighter bag. Drives go 200 yds straight consistently, sometimes further. 5 goes 155 yards every time. I do not slice or hook. I am just a hair under 50 years old.

My wrist measurement is 34.5, I cut my irons standard length, woods shorter than standard. They just feel better that way.

I typically use TTLite shafts in my irons and woods due to the .580 diamater in the A flex version of that shaft. My hands are a bit small, I use a ladies size grip either over a .580 or stretched over a .600 butt. I go back and forth, not knowing what's "right" for me. (I've used Hireko's swing analysis tools , and they agree with what i've been doing based on yardages I hit the clubs, suggesting TTLite XL shafts, A flex.)

anyone who wants to chime in, the input would be appreciated.....


d :D ]]> http://www.hirekogolf.com/jforum/posts/2763#7109.page http://www.hirekogolf.com/jforum/posts/2763#7109.page
Jeff Summitt]]> http://www.hirekogolf.com/jforum/posts/2763#7111.page http://www.hirekogolf.com/jforum/posts/2763#7111.page http://www.hirekogolf.com/jforum/posts/2763#7112.page http://www.hirekogolf.com/jforum/posts/2763#7112.page
Yes, they have a large ferrule. Shaft label says True Temper - R.

I did re-grip; a 39 gram .560 size.

d

Jeff Summitt wrote:

Do these heads have a ferrule (checking to see if they are original 855 or re-makes) and what does it say on the shaft label? Lastly, did you re-grip these irons or are they the original men's standard size? Jeff Summitt

]]> http://www.hirekogolf.com/jforum/posts/2763#7113.page http://www.hirekogolf.com/jforum/posts/2763#7113.page
Steel-shafted with a ferrule would indicate the newer remake of that iron - there were actually a couple different models with that name too. You may be using too light and perhaps too flexible of a shaft (although the TT Lite A-flex does run firm). Check the shaft. If the step pattern is 2" apart (or greater), it would be a heavy commercial grade shaft. While we do not sell that model, we do have the Apollo Standard Stepped steel. If the step pattern is 1 1/4" part then it is a True Temper Dynalite shaft. In addition, these may be weaker lofted irons.

Jeff Summitt]]> http://www.hirekogolf.com/jforum/posts/2763#7116.page http://www.hirekogolf.com/jforum/posts/2763#7116.page
I am also thinking of going with an R flex. If I use an A/L rated .580 shaft, can I compensate on the tip trimming to achieve an R flex? I like the slimmer diameter shaft.

Jeff Summitt wrote:

Dave: Steel-shafted with a ferrule would indicate the newer remake of that iron - there were actually a couple different models with that name too. You may be using too light and perhaps too flexible of a shaft (although the TT Lite A-flex does run firm). Check the shaft. If the step pattern is 2" apart (or greater), it would be a heavy commercial grade shaft. While we do not sell that model, we do have the Apollo Standard Stepped steel. If the step pattern is 1 1/4" part then it is a True Temper Dynalite shaft. In addition, these may be weaker lofted irons. Jeff Summitt

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Just trim to standard A-flex on the A/L version. That shaft runs firm and is just as stiff as the R-flex. This way you get the smaller butt diameter, plus the heavier weight.

Jeff Summitt]]> http://www.hirekogolf.com/jforum/posts/2763#7126.page http://www.hirekogolf.com/jforum/posts/2763#7126.page